Sewing Tips

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Is sewing for kids different?

For some of us, it's more fun. And here are some things that you can do to make it easier.

Gathering

Sewing for girls always seems to involve some gathering — skirts, ruffles, puffed sleeves. If you have headaches with gathering by the method that some of us were taught (three rows of long, straight stitches), you might want to try the following method: Zigzag wide over a thin cord (like dental floss), being careful not to stitch into the cord. If you have a presser foot for applying braid, you can almost do it without using your hands. Then draw up the cord to fit the piece where you’ll attach the gathered item. Tie off the ends of the cord with a bow (so you can undo it if needed), pin the two pieces together, and stitch through gathered fabric — thick and lumpy. If you have a roller foot, walking foot, or a foot with a plastic bottom, it might move over the lumps easier. Pull out the cord after stitching the two pieces together.

Hemming Ruffles

Singer’s Sewing Library gives the following advice: Instead of hemming a ruffle, cut it twice as deep, fold it in half, and ruffle it. Now both sides will look nice, and you have dodged the narrow hem.

Collars

Rounded collars are easier to get right than collars with points. You can convert a pointed collar to a round one by using the edge of a saucer to round off the corner when you cut out the pattern.

On the other hand, if you really want a pointed collar but have trouble with the thickness of the folds of fabric, take a look at Nancy Zieman's Express Collar technique. It's at Nancy's Notions under the Free Projects list. Take a look at her merchandise while you're at it, including the Creative Kindness section.

Linings or Facings?

Lining a bodice gives a wonderfully finished look to a dress and keeps it looking good longer. If you get frustrated with the hand-detailing that goes into a facing, consider a pattern with a lining instead. After you've done one or two linings from a pattern, you can probably work out a lining even for patterns that don't include linings.

Similarly, Nancy Zieman has pointed out that lining a sleeve is often easier than hemming one, especially on the small sleeves of children's clothes. To make the lining:
  • Cut out a duplicate of each sleeve from lining fabric.
  • Trim off about 1/2" or 3/4" of each lining at the bottom edge.
  • Meet and stitch the sleeve and lining together (right-sides-together) along the bottom edge.
  • Fold it in half lengthwise, so that the under-arm edges meet and stitch along the under-arm seam--lining to lining and fashion fabric to fashion fabric.
  • Fold them together (right-side-out), with the sleeve and lining caps meeting. That is, fold the lining up inside the sleeve. Because the fashion fabric sleeve is longer than the lining, it will provide a fold of 1/4" to 3/8" deep at the bottom edge of the sleeve. And the underarm seam is covered by the lining. Very neat.
  • Set it into the bodice as you would a single-layer sleeve.
 "All the sentiments in the world weigh less than a single lovely action." - James Russell Lowell